Tapas, Flamenco and bulls' blood mix with Moorish palaces and Roman ruins: OutUK's
Adrian Gillan finds oranges aren't the only low-hanging fruit in Seville, Spain's
fourth largest city.
Capital of Andalucía in Spain's sultry south and fourth largest Spanish city after
Madrid, Barcelona and Valencia: the old port of Seville - before it silted up and
receded inland - launched Christopher Columbus to (re)discover the New World and was then torn
between Muslim & Christian marauders for centuries.
The 2¾-hour flight from London parks you at the airport a few miles north east of
centre; then a dirt-cheap 20 minute bus ride takes you in to just south of the
Cathedral and historic core. Before you hit the gay scene, do take some time to
take in the city's best loved sights.
Catedral de Santa María de la Sede as it's officially named is one of the world's largest.
Inside you can see Christopher Columbus' tomb and climb the Giralda Tower for stunning views of the city.
Skip over the road to be dazzled by the faultlessly intricate
Moorish vistas and symmetries at the magical Alcázar Palace, with its huge, yet
intimate ornate Gardens - an endless paradise of some immaculate topiared hedges,
with orange-brimming trees, tweeting sun-basking birds and shady fish-swishing pools.
Closeby is the University of Seville, built in the 18th century as a vast Tobacco factory
and known for being the workplace of Bizet's fictional heroine Carmen.
The Giralda Tower.
To continue your journey go across to the gigantic coloured-tiled, crescent-shaped Plaza de
Espana and then beyond to the shady, well-kept Parque de María Louisa.
Stroll back up the historic River Guadalquivir - from the banks of which many an Earth-shattering
voyage set forth - whiffing the dung from the huge Maestranza bull ring as you go.
Cross the ornate Triana Bridge into its namesake barrio - famed for Flamenco and
gypsy roots, though more gentrified now - to lunch or dine, depending on the time.
Again, schedule-permitting, gorge on local painters Murillo & Zurbarán back over
the river at the Museo de Bellas Artes; or bus it out a few miles to the ruinous
Roman city at Itálica, where Trajan and - most likely - Hadrian were both born,
to explore the 200BC, 20,000-seat amphitheatre, communal baths and miles of mosaics.
As darkness falls, muster just north of Seville's historic centre, around
Macarena - ayeeeeeeee… yes, the self-same as crooned over in that irritatingly
rather addictive international pop hit; or, for queerest things, the nearby Alameda de
Hércules - a long stretch of dusty ground where crowds of local youths mainly
gather to booze and cheat the night away.
View of the Alcázar Palace.
FOOD FOR THE SOUL
Mentiroso Café-Bar is an LGBT friendly cafe bar with modern, laid-back atmosphere, and some good and friendly staff. The smell of incense inside is a bit overwhelming but you can comfortably sit outside under the warm halogen lamps. It's good for a date or casual chat.
Top tip: as ever in Spain, to pace your night, have
an early eve club nap; then don't eat before 11.30pm, nor hit bars before
1am nor clubs pre-three!
There's a good selection of gay bars like:
El Gallo Negro on Calle Arfe, which has some of the best strawberry mojitos ever. It's a great place to
hangout with locals and somewhere to party at night too. A little loud but always a good time!
Versalles Bar de Copas on Calle Arias Montano is a nice little bar in a quiet street near the Alameda place.
Cheap drinks and the allure of an outdoor terrace in a LGTB friendly environment.
You'll find that most of the LGBT and Gay bars muster around Alameda
de Hércules. Start your crawl at the friendly and informal El Barón Rampante ('the Rampant Male')
on side-street Calle Arias Montano. Bartenders are super cool and there's a nice vibe to the music!
If you nip next door into its adjacent bar sidekick El Bosque Animado
you'll find punters from both mingling gaily on the road outside.
Close by, 1987 Bar is another option - it's a pretty busy place on weekends, known for its mix of very danceable
music from the 70s, 80s and 90s - if one can find a spot to dance on as this small venue
gets crowded rather quickly. It's very LBGT-friendly, cozy and serves good cocktails.
CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
If you just want to cop off, head straight for PRIDE B4R / Men to Men
back over on Calle Trajano, just below Alameda de Hércules. They haven't quite made their mind up what this place is called.
It is not the typical dark nightclub or bear bar that made you feel
uncomfortable in the past. PRIDE B4R / Men To Men is on two floors, with fairly spectacular lighting, a dancefloor with DJs, and although 100% masculine
it attracts a varied croud - young and mature, locals and visitors, bears and next-door pals.
To jive, hit Itaca on Calle Amor de Dios - though not, as said, 'til 3am.
It's the mainstay gay club in town with good dance music, plus large men-only rear,
complete with highly cruisy darkroom loft crammed with private cabins - just watch
where you're kneeling!
HOLIDAY by Obbio is a Gay-friendly nightclub with 1970s-inspired decor & 2 dance floors for DJs & live entertainment. It's to be found on
Jesús del Gran Poder. It doesn't open until 11pm, so don't expect a big or a young crowd.
Alameda Ritual Club is as you'd expect on Alameda de Hércules. It's a popular gay bar with a number of themed nights which include
Ritual night, Eurovision specials and Benidorm Festivals. DILEMA closeby offers cheap drinks, particularly the local beer and relaxed
atmosphere. It's popular with the LGBT crowd and has friendly staff.
El Bunker hosts some unforgettable nights of pure indulgence, where men can let loose. Wednesdays there's a strict dress code that 'encourages' nudity
from head to toe - whether you're into showing off your body or just feeling comfortable in your own skin - this is the night for you! Thursdays
are their Bear Nights for bears and their admirers, with a Underwear only dress code as it is on Fridays when they have a live show. Saturdays and
Sundays are shirtless days and on Mondays, well anything goes!
Sauna The Cube Urban is the best Gay sauna in Seville found in Calle Perafán de Rivera. It is a place of leisure, where you can relax, have
a drink or coffee, read a book, listen to music or have a great time. They have new, modern, fully equipped facilities, in three different environments.
Large locker room, Water area with jacuzzi, 2 Turkish baths and 2 Finnish saunas, Private Cabins, Small Crossfit area and Glory Hole. There's the second
environment with a Large chill out area, lounge bar, Balinese beds, Jacuzzi, small library and VIP zone, and then in the third there's a large Cruising Area,
Labyrinth, Glory Hole, X-Rated Cinema and Private Cabin. Something for every taste.
OUT AND ABOUT
Wherever you go in Seville there's plenty to see and places to take your photographs. The scenery is
stunning and you're bound to end up with some really memorable holiday pictures.
It really is a photographer’s paradise as the city is by far the prettiest and best maintained of
all in Andalusia.
Couple enjoying tourism in Seville |
Once you have finished with the camera, if you are out late at night you can cruise Plaza España and the fringes of Parque María Luisa
on foot, or across the river in the Cartuja district, troll Zona Estacionamiento Expo92 by car.
Libreria Amaranta is a well-stocked, gay-slanted bookshop between
Plaza Alfalfa and Plaza San Pedro; just north of the Magdalena church, and it's surrounded by
several gay-friendly shops selling briefs and swimwear, and a a wider-range of clothes.
PLACES TO STAY
Hotel y Apartamentos Gay Sevilla own a Hotel and some Apartments, two buildings located opposite each other. The services of a Hotel, and
the advantages of an apartment. They have a Solarium Terrace with a small outdoor jacuzzi that serves as a swimming pool, sun loungers, artificial grass
and an exclusive nudist area. Breakfast service, personal treatment, own parking and city guide next to the Alameda de Hércules in the Hotel and Apartments
Doña Lola Sevilla.
Our hotel partners
Bookings offer a wide range of gay-friendly hotels at special online prices.
You can get direct scheduled flights from the UK with a number of airlines including
Easyjet, BA and Ryanair.
Seville is amazingly sunny and warm most of the year, especially April-September.
You might also consider visiting aroound the Easter period for the haunting
Semana Santa festival, where hooded, cowled penitents process through the streets
bearing crosses! Very SM but minus the whips!
THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK
1987 Bar (Alameda de Hércules 93; T: +34 672 664 455; Website)
Aire Sevilla (Calle Aire, Barrio de Santa Cruz; T: + 34 954 500 905; Website)
Alameda Ritual Club (Alameda de Hércules 68; T: +34 633 39 80 08; Website)
DILEMA (Alameda de Hércules 80; T: +34 954 50 12 96; facebook)
El Barón Rampante (Calle Arias Montano 3; T: +34 647 249 537;facebook)
El Bosque Animado (Calle Arias Montano 5; T: +34 954 916 862; facebook)
El Bunker (Calle Torrijiano 2; Website)
El Gallo Negro (Calle Arfe 7; T: +34 954 230 344; Website)
HOLIDAY by Obbio (Jesús del Gran Poder 73; T: +34 692 52 90 93; Instagram)
Hotel y Apartamentos Gay Sevilla (Calle Amor de Dios 22; Website)
Itaca (Calle Amor de Dios 31; Instagram)
Libreria Amaranta (Calle Pérez Galdós 24; T: +34 954 222 790; Website)
Librería Pérez Galdós (Calle Hortaleza 5; T: +34 915 312 640; Website)
Mentiroso Café-Bar (Calle Compañía 1; T: +34 627 66 20 88; facebook)
PRIDE B4R / Men to Men (Calle Trajano 38; Website)
Sauna The Cube Urban (Calle Perafán de Rivera 8; T: +34 954 08 37 37; Website)
Versalles Bar de Copas (Calle Arias Montano; T: +34 690 348 749)
Revised October 2023.